frequently asked questions


NEO Paints does not supply automotive paints in the sense of Duco and various colours. NEO Paints manufactures Neo Truck Enamel, which is a hardwearing finish mostly used on trucks. The truck enamel comes in a limited few colours, like white and cat yellow. Truck body builders and suppliers of earth moving machines normally use these paints. Primer to be used will be the NEO Corrotec.

There are many varieties of Alu-zinc roof sheeting on the market today. Alu-zinc is a combination of aluminium and zinc; with the latter the larger part in this mixture. The aluminium is added to the conventional zinc coating to give a more even silver finish to the roof sheeting, and is mostly used on roofs not to be painted. During the past years however these roof sheeting became so popular for various reasons, that they are also used on roofs that must be painted.

There are two types of Alu-zinc roof sheeting on the market:

  1. An Alu-zinc that is not factory treated. This Alu-zinc must be treated and painted like conventional corrugated roof sheeting (see section: Roofs).
  2. The second one is a factory treated Alu-zinc of which the supplier claims cannot be painted. This factory treated Alu-zinc has a protective coating of resin-plastic (guaranteed to last 5 years), which protects the Alu-zinc against environmental attacks (like acid rain etc). The manufacturer of Alu-zinc developed this, as many customers wanted the Alu-zinc protected if installed unpainted on a roof.

Before attempting to paint, contact NEO Helpline for technical advice.

All of NEO Paints solvent-based paints can be applied by airless spray. Acrylic PVA and NEO Roof paints can also be applied by airless spray provided the nozzle of the spray gun is large enough. Thinning of the acrylic paint for spray application should not exceed 5%.

Paint adhesion fails if the surface is not prepared correctly (a galvanised roof not properly cleaned with metal conditioner or a chalking wall not sealed with bonding liquid), a wrong primer (Contractors PVA) has been used or a filler repaired area has not been stabilized with Bonding Liquid.

To do an adhesion test, a V has to be cut into the paint film by using a sharp carpet knife (see drawing 1). Stick masking tape over the V and pull it in the direction of the sharp point of the V, in a 90º angle from the surface (see drawing 2). The poorer the adhesion of paint to the substrate, the more paint will stick to the masking tape. Depending on the substrate you now can determine if the wrong primer or poor surface preparation is the cause.


Yes, clean the walls from mould with soft brush, wash the walls with NEO Fungi Wash and paint the walls with two coats of NEO Industrial Plastic. On new dry walls, apply one coat of NEO Industrial Plastic diluted with 5 to 10% of enamel thinner and one to two coats undiluted. Also good for shower cubicles. Please remember to ventilate a bathroom well after a shower/bath, as the moisture vapours and the warmth are the breeding ground for mould.

No, for enamel baths we do not have any paint. High Gloss Enamel and Industrial Plastic will last a very short time and then start peeling off. There is a specialised paint for this on the market available at selected hardware dealers.

Fibreglass baths should not be painted and should be redone with fibreglass lining.


Structural cracks normally work a lot, and depending on their width, must be treated different to normal plaster cracks. Cracks should be saturated with NEO Bonding Liquid and then repaired with NEO Repair Paste, working the paste well into the cracks. Work the NEO Repair Paste in 2mm thick layers and allow each layer to dry for one hour (applying Repair Paste too thick will prolong drying time tremendously and will lead to shrinkage and possible shrinkage cracks). Repeat until crack cavity is completely filled. Work off last layer to smooth with moist spatula to minimize sanding (NEO Repair Paste is highly flexible, thus extremely difficult to sand).

Cracks above 8 to 10mm width it is recommendable to fill the crack with a Builders Foam, cut excessive foam away with a carpet knife and then fill and work off with NEO Repair Paste. As the NEO Repair Paste stays flexible, it is recommended to work off the NEO Repair Paste as good as possible, as sanding will be difficult.

Alternatively, an experienced builder should repair the cracks with conventional methods.

Remember that NEO Aurora Filler should not be used exterior where a lot of moisture can penetrate the wall, as this filler contains plaster of Paris, which swells if in constant moist conditions. Rather use the NEO Repair Paste in such circumstances. Always seal the filler repaired area with NEO Bonding Liquid prior to painting.

See section: smoke stains.

A Cold or Cool room should be painted with NEO Industrial Plastic. This paint is highly washable and mould resistant. NEO Industrial Plastic should be applied directly on dry walls, the first coat diluted with 5 to 10% enamel thinner and followed by two coats undiluted. This paint was developed for the fishing industry and has many applications, including Hospitals, Butcheries, Food Processing Factories etc. On previously painted surfaces it is advisable to test whether the existing paint is compatible with the NEO Industrial Plastic. If not, blistering, lemon skin & peeling might occur. In this case the old paint will have to be removed completely.

See Tiles.

If you want a textured paint on the ceiling, make sure the existing paint is good and adhering well to the ceiling. If not, the old paint has to be removed as good as possible, one coat of NEO Bonding Liquid applied and then two coats of any of NEO’s textured paint.

Old ceilings in good condition, cleaned ceilings and new ceilings should be painted with one coat of NEO Bonding Liquid before any of Neo’s textured paint is applied.

Existing textured ceilings in good condition can be over-painted with one or two coats with any of NEO’s PVA.

Existing textured ceilings in bad condition: Remove loose paint. Seal with NEO Bonding Liquid, spot paint the affected areas with the same textured paint previously used. If the spot painted areas do blend in well with the surrounding textured paint, one or two coats of any of NEO‘s PVA can be painted over the whole ceiling to get an even finish. If however the spot painted areas do not blend in with the existing finish, the whole ceiling should be painted with one or two coats of any of NEO’s textured paint to get a uniform finish.

If ceilings are yellowedby cooking smoke or cigarette smoke, it is advisable to seal these ceilings with NEO Bonding Liquid or NEO Stain Sealer first and to apply two coats of NEO Household PVA or NEO Premium Contractors PVA.

Ceilings where the old paint is pealing or cracking, remove the old paint by means of sanding. Make good with one coat NEO Bonding Liquid and two coats of NEO Household PVA or NEO Premium Contractors PVA. Clean ceilings in good condition can be over-painted with one or two coats NEO Household PVA or NEO Premium Contractors PVA.

It is recommended that new ceilings be painted with one coat NEO Contractors Premium Primer or NEO Bonding Liquid and two coats NEO Household PVA or NEO Premium Contractors PVA.

Seal watermarks with NEO Stain Sealer, NEO Universal Undercoat or NEO Road Marking Paint. NEO Stain Sealer is the correct product for this purpose as it seals the watermark and is quick drying due to its alcohol basis. The other two products can also be used, but it is not recommendable due to the long drying time (universal undercoat) and the aggressive solvent (Road marking), which might damage the substrate. Paint one or two coats NEO PVA of choice.

Ceilings can be painted with a variety of paints and you should find out the condition of the ceiling.

Remove as much of the chalking possible by means of brush or high pressure cleaner. Apply one coat of NEO Bonding Liquid and two coats of NEO PVA.

See also section: smoke stains.


First you have to establish the following: The kind of paint applied (Water /solvent based); did you add anything to the paint; was the substrate cleaned properly before application; was the weather cold or hot, damp or dry; how many coats were applied; how thick was the paint applied and how long intervals between the different coats; was a primer / undercoat applied.

Normally this problem will only occur with solvent based paints, but can also occur with water based paints if temperatures drop below 4ºC and the paint is applied too thick. In this case the paint might develop a surface skin with the inner layers not drying within the normal time frame. Normally this paint will develop hairline cracks when drying properly. Paint needs to be rolled out properly (rather paint two thin coats than one thick coat) and do not to paint when temperatures drop below 15ºC.

Solvent based paints will have drying problems if:

  1. The wrong thinner has been used i.e. if paraffin (has a very high, slow evaporating oil content) instead of Mineral Turpentine has been used; turpentine instead of enamel thinners etc.
  2. The surface has not been cleaned properly and is contaminated with oil, soap etc.
  3. Cold weather reduces the drying time of solvent based paints drastically – often to be encountered during our winter months, as the drying process with temperatures below 15ºC virtually comes to a standstill. If painting the next coat too soon after the previous coat, a patchy finish or wrinkling will take place. This is a sure sign that the first coat has not dried sufficiently and the second coat is softening / dissolving the first coat. Solvent based paint painted late afternoon during winter months should only be recoated after 24 hours to ensure the first coat has sufficiently dried. This is more extreme with epoxy-based paint, as epoxy cures by a chemical process, which needs temperatures at around 20 to 25ºC to be most effective.
  4. A very thickly applied paint coat will take much longer to cure than a properly rolled / brushed out paint coat.
  5. Intervals between paint coats is very important, as the first coat, be it primer, undercoat or first topcoat have to be hard dry before the next coat is applied. Paint applied to a not completely cured paint film will result in: The second coat does not dry within its usual time frame, the first coat dissolves / lifts, the topcoat appears patchy, the paint develops wrinkles.
  6. Excessive moisture will also slow down the drying process of some enamel paints, thus the drying time will be longer than under ideal conditions.

See also section: Thinning problems

See PVC pipes.

Cement / galvanised dams can be sealed with NEO Elastic Waterproofing.

  1. Cement surfaces: Clean the cement surface with stiff Nylon brush from any contamination. Cracks over 2mm width must be filled as in section “cracks” above with NEO Repair Paste. Apply one generous coat of NEO Bonding Liquid over crack cavity / repaired crack, going 50mm over the crack edges both sides. Let dry for 4 hours not exceeding 48 hours. Apply three to four coats of NEO Elastic Water Proofing onto Bonding Liquid treated area. Allow each layer to dry for 4 hours. After final coat let dry for 7 days in hot, dry weather and up to 14 days in cold or damp weather. Fish Ponds should be filled with water, left to stand for 2 weeks, drained and refilled before fish can be added.
  2. Metal troughs (galvanized): Clean properly of any contamination like algae, lime etc. Remove rust mechanically back to bare metal. Spot prime de-rusted surface with 1 coat NEO Corroguard Primer and let dry for 3 hours. Apply three coats NEO Elastic Water Proofing over whole area (let each layer cross previous layer diagonally) allowing each layer to dry for 4 hours. Let dry for 7 days after last layer, fill with water for 48 hours and then drain. Fill with clean water.

This is not suited for fibreglass or moulded plastic containers.

First you have to establish the cause of the moisture. If a pipe was leaking and has been repaired, the loose paint should be removed, bonding liquid applied and two coats of NEO PVA applied.

If the moisture comes from the foundation or retaining wall (mostly damp core is damaged or no damp core has been used) or parapet wall top, the problem often cannot be solved permanently with paint. To expand the lifetime of the paint and plaster the following should be done:


  1. Foundations & Retention walls:  Remove all loose and flaking paint back to bare plaster. Remove any damaged plaster back to bare brick. Apply one generous coat NEO Salt Stop and re-plaster. Let dry new plaster completely. Apply one generous coat of NEO Salt Stop over all bare plaster and let dry for 2 hours. Apply one coat of NEO Contractor Premium Primer and let dry for 4 hours. Apply two coats of NEO PVA of choice, allowing 4 hours drying time between coats.
  2. Top of Parapet/ Garden/Boundary walls: Remove all loose and flaking paint. Apply one generous coat of NEO Bonding Liquid on top of wall and going 50mm over the edge both sides of wall – allow 4 hours drying time. Apply two coats NEO Elastic Water Proofing by brush over Bonding Liquid treated area, allowing 4 hours drying time between coats. Let dry for 24 hours after final coat and apply two coats NEO PVA of choice, allowing 4 hours drying time between coats.


Apply one generous coat of NEO Salt Stop over whole plastered area (recommended). On large building where this could be a cost issue, apply one generous coat of NEO Salt Stop on all foundations (below ground level up to 300mm above foundation expansion line), parapet/garden/boundary wall tops, retention walls and all plaster cracks. Let dry for two hours and repair all cracks as in section cracks above. Apply one coat NEO Contractor Premium Primer and two coats NEO PVA of choice, allowing 4 hours drying time between coats.

It is recommended to seal all horizontal surfaces (top of parapet/garden/boundary walls) with 2 coats NEO Elastic Water Proofing to prevent pooling rain water from penetrating the wall through cracks at a later stage.


I have applied one coat NEO Silk to a new Rhino board ceiling. When touching up there is a distinctive and obvious difference in sheen. Is there something wrong with the paint?

This is a clear sign that no bonding liquid or primer has been used. The Rhino board, if not sealed, absorbs the thinner and some of the binder before the paint can dry. This will result that the paint appears more matt than normal. If this first coat is touched up, the second coat will have more gloss than the first as no binder & solvent will be absorbed by the substrate and normal drying will take place. In a case where the first coat has been applied directly to the Rhino board without applying a coat of primer / bonding liquid first, the first paint coat cannot be touched up, but the whole surface has to be re-painted. (See also section: patchy spots)  


Floors are one of the more complex surfaces to be painted and must be carefully examined before painting is advised. It is recommended to ask a NEO Paints representative to examine the floor before any painting attempt.

See dams.

Neo Paints does not have a fire retarding paint. This is a specialised paint that does withstand extreme high temperatures and is often used in buildings with a high fire risk – i.e. petrol companies and explosives depots, high rise buildings etc. Contact SIGMA at our Walfish Bay Office @ 064 – 204 026.

Sand surface well, apply one coat NEO Multi Purpose Primer and then apply two coats NEO Dur PVA, NEO Gloss Acrylic or NEO Dur High Gloss Enamel.

Not recommended for interior of Fibreglass tanks or swimming pools.

Colour fades mostly for two reasons: UV attack and rain washing the pigments out of the paint film. This is a clear sign that an inferior quality of paint has been used. The darker the colour, the higher grade PVA should be used. High quality paint like the NEO Dur PVA, NEO Multi Dur PVA & NEO Teflacryl have high binder content, which is necessary to bind in and protect the pigments against the environment. Lower quality paint does not have enough binder to bind the pigments properly, thus are these prone to UV attack and to be washed out of the paint film by rain. To rectify this, chalking must be removed good as possible, apply one coat NEO Bonding Liquid and two coats of NEO Dur PVA, NEO Multi Dur PVA or NEO Teflacryl.

Example of fading due to dark colour in an inferior quality; under the roof and the window sills where the sun / rain virtually never reach the paint, the colour is fairly intact, but the rest is completely faded.


Galvanised steel can be painted with a wide variety of paint, if the right procedures are followed. It should be remembered that painting should not take place when metal is hot (over 25ºc) or cold (beneath 15ºc) as this will influence the drying time of the paint negatively and the paint will not form a proper bond to the metal.

New Galvanised Roof sheeting: New Roof sheeting must be cleaned with NEO Metal Conditioner first. Apply NEO Metal Conditioner liberally in ± 1m² blocks, leave for 10 to 15 minutes and wash off by scrubbing with a stiff nylon brush and plenty of clean, potable water. If the colour of the galvanising has changed from a high sheen very silver to more greyish matt silver, the surface is ready for painting – if this did not happen, there is still an oil residue and the procedure has to be repeated. Make sure the NEO Metal Conditioner does not dry before washing off, as once dry, it is very difficult to remove. Now you can apply two to three coats of NEO Roof Paint or NEO Cool Roof.

Remember: Namibia has of the highest UV radiation in the world, and as the roof catches 100% of this UV radiation, only limited colours will last.

Care should be taken that painting takes place when the roof is cool – a hot surface will burn the paint and no proper adhesion will take place.

It is not advisable to paint a solvent based paint on a roof as the sun will burn it very fast – Acrylic paints will last much longer. If you wish to paint a glossy paint on down pipes and gutters, NEO Gloss Acrylic is recommended.

New Galvanised steel: Clean as in new galvanised roof sheeting. Depending on the purpose, this can now be painted with a variety of paint.

Acrylic Pva: If you like to go with PVA (the better choice in many applications) you have three options: 1. NEO Gloss Acrylic – high sheen PVA, 2. NEO Dur PVA (SABS – SANS 1586 grade 1) – semi sheen paint, 3. NEO Multi Dur PVA (SABS – SANS 1586 grade 2) – velvet sheen. At the coast it is advisable to paint one coat of Neo Corruguard first for extra protection, before applying the acrylic Pva.

Solvent based paints: Clean as in new galvanised roof sheeting. Apply one or two coats of NEO Corrotec and two coats of NEO Dur High Gloss Enamel / NEO Dur Eggshell Enamel / NEO Silk / NEO Industrial Plastic. Depending on the purpose of use, choose the required topcoat – contact NEO Helpline if in doubt.

Old Galvanised Roof sheeting: Roof sheeting older than two years can be considered as old roof sheeting. Old sheeting should be cleaned with clean potable water and then painted with two or three coats of Acrylic paint (see new galvanised roof sheeting).

White rust must be removed by means of a stiff brush, the affected area primed with Neo Corruguard before painting with the topcoat. Although white rust is on the surface, the primer must be applied as the white rust most probably has damaged the protective zinc coating.

Red Rust: Remove the rust completely back to bare, clean metal. Apply one coat of NEO Corruguard and apply paint as above.

Old Galvanised steel: Prepare as Old Galvanised Roof sheeting and apply paint as in New Galvanised steel.

Galvanised Hydraulic pipes: I have galvanised hydraulic pipes – they are filled with hydraulic oil and have a working temperature of 100ºc. With what can I paint the inside of the pipes?

Hydraulic oil has a corrosive nature and the high working temperature worsens this. Apply one or two coats of NEO Corrotec and two coats of NEO Epoxy Enamel. Leave 7 days to cure.


Never use Hydrochloric acid to clean galvanised metal, only NEOMetalconditioner. Galvanised Metal is factory treated with an oil to help during the manufacturing process and to protect the metal whilst being stored until sold. NEO Metalconditioner has a special combination of soap and Organic acid, which dissolves these oils and gently etches the galvanising layer. Hydrochloric acid, even when diluted, is of a very aggressive nature, which dissolves galvanising and thus damages the galvanised layer; above that, this acid does not dissolve some of the substances in the oil being used on the galvanised metals.

NEO Heat Resistant Black and Heat Resistant Aluminium can take heat up to 200ºC. Over that, you would need a specialised industrial paint. Contact our Walvis Bay Office on 064 – 204026 for SIGMA Industrial Coatings.


Interlocks can only be painted with NEO Tennis Court Paint (pre-treat with one coat NEO Salt Stop). Other Pva’s either stain too quickly (the permeable PVA’s) and the one’s which don’t stain, seal the surface and thus will come off if water penetrates the interlocks.

If the interlocks are in a driveway, it is not recommended to paint them. Water-based paint is thermoplastic, which means it gets softer when getting hot. The hot tires of the car will soften the water based paint, resulting in the paint sticking to the car’s tyres, and when the car is moved again, the paint will lift off.


Lime wash was used in the old days quite a lot as it was cheap and easy to apply, although not the ideal finish for our dry interior of the country. At the coast it was a very good product to be used, as the Lime wash needs moisture to maintain its surface appearance and because it is fully permeable.

To paint such a wall with PVA, , the Lime wash must be removed as good as possible by means of wire brush, Sand blasting or High-pressure water cleaner. Let dry properly and apply one coat NEO Bonding Liquid diluted with 5% water (for better penetration). Let dry for 4 hours and apply two coats of NEO PVA of choice. No guarantees can be given, as the paint will only last if the preparation is done well and a minimum of Lime wash residue remains on the wall.

Neo Gloss Acrylic, Neo Dur SABS 1 PVA or Neo Teflacryl.


a) If the moisture is because it is a new wall / floor, you have to wait until the surface has dried completely. A floor can be tested for moisture by placing a plastic sheet of ± 1m² over night, ensuring the sides of the plastic sheet close tight by placing bricks or any other heavy objects along the edges. If the floor shows a darker discoloration and / or moisture on the plastic sheet the next morning, the floor is still too wet to paint. A more accurate method would be to request a NEO Paints representative to measure the moisture content under the plastic sheet with a humidity tester.

b) If the moisture is from a burst pipe, repair the pipe and let dry properly. Apply one coat bonding liquid and paint two coats of paint.

c) If moisture is from the surrounding soil, the wall should be sealed from the side the moisture comes from. It does not help to try and seal the wall on the side where the moisture exits the wall, as the capillary effect of the cement is so strong, that the moisture will force any paint off the substrate. If the sealer should penetrate the substrate deep enough to prevent the moisture lifting the paint, the moisture will a) keep rising to a level where it can come out; and b) start attacking the brickwork / plaster up to such point where the plaster eventually will start crumbling and come off the wall.

Apply one to two generous coats of NEO Salt Stop on the side of moisture ingress – foundations up to 300mm above foundation expansion joint, top of parapet, garden, boundary walls and over whole surface of retaining wall.

d) If moisture penetrates floors from underneath, the floor cannot be painted, as the paint will come off. This is due to no damp core underneath the floor and cannot be solved, unless the floor is removed, damp core laid and a new floor is cast. The only other option would be: leave the floor like it is or tile the floor with a permeable floor tile.

See also the section: dampness in walls; for reference to moisture rising from the foundations.

Clean the surface with Methylated Spirits to remove possible oil & fat residue. Sand well to matt and remove dust properly. Apply one coat of NEO Multi Purpose Primer and when dry, apply two coats of NEO Dur PVA, NEO Dur High Gloss Enamel, NEO Silk Enamel or NEO Eggshell Enamel.


It is not recommendable to paint a stoep unless properly damp sealed and preferably under roof. If properly sealed and under roof, NEO Alkyd Floor Paint can be applied.

Open floors and Interlock walk ways should be dry and free from fat and oil. NEO Salt Stop should be applied, followed by two coats of NEO Tennis Court Paint.

A new floor can be painted with many different types of paint without any problems. The most important matter here is that the floor is dry (a new floor, depending on the thickness of the screed and the temperature / weather conditions takes 2 to 6 months to dry)! The moisture level must not be over 14% and the floor should have been properly damp cored. The floor must also be clean and not skimmed with an oil trowel (the paint will not adhere to an oily surface). NEO Epoxy Floor Paint (garages, workshops, heavy duty traffic like shops etc) or NEO Alkyd Floor Paint (houses, low traffic areas) can be applied. Exterior it is not recommended to paint Enamel based paint on floors, as they are not UV resistant and will lift if water penetrates through cracks or from underneath.


A surface contaminated with oil cannot be painted. Chemical suppliers sell products they claim will remove oil contaminations –i.e. drive way cleaners for service stations. Unfortunately do these cleaners only remove the oil/fat/polish contamination from the upper layer of the floor (maximum 5mm deep). The surface may look clean after treatment, but oil might still be deeper in the substrate. This oil will over time rise to the substrates surface and eventually lift the paint and often in case a solvent based paint has been applied, rise to the surface immediately and prevent the paint from curing (hardening).

If oil contamination is present, the best to do would be to remove the plaster / topping and to re-do this plaster / topping. After sufficient drying time the surface can be painted.

First you have to find out what kind of floor paint is already on the floor and look at the condition of the floor / existing floor paint, i.e. is it chipped, is the screed contaminated with oil, soap, polish etc. (See also Polish, Moisture & Oil stain sections.)

Not sure which kind of paint is the existing coating: In this case it would be advisable to remove the existing coating completely by means of sanding. Using an acid / paint remover can be done, but: 1.  Neo Epoxy based paints will not come off by using acid or a paint remover.

 2. Water based stoep paint will turn sticky and greasy when coming in contact with acid.

 3. Acid / Paint Remover will penetrate the cement and attack any paint from within the

     cement if over-painted. If an acid / paint remover has been used, the floor must be washed

     with “bicarbonate soda” and rinsed properly with water to neutralise the acid. Let dry properly!

Epoxy coated floors must be sanded with coarse sanding paper to completely matt. Only Epoxy Enamel can be painted over this surface.

Alkyd enamel painted floors should be sanded well and can be over coated with an enamel or water-based floor paint. Epoxy cannot be painted, as this will lift the existing paint coat.

(See also Polish, Moisture & Oil stain sections)

Water-based stoep paint floors should be clean and can be over-painted with enamel & water based paint. Epoxy cannot be painted, as this will lift the existing paint coat.

(See also Polish, Moisture & Oil stain sections.)

Old floor never been painted before: Make sure the floor is free of any polish, oil, soap or other contamination. (See also Polish, Moisture & Oil stain sections.) Very smoothly skimmed floors the floor screed must be sanded slightly or acid etched (acid to be neutralized prior to painting with a bicarbonate soda solution) to break the surface to enable the paint to adhere to the floor. The floor must be properly swiped from any dust and must be dry. The first coat should be thinned with 5% thinner and one to two topcoats undiluted, be it NEO Epoxy Floor Paint or NEO Alkyd Floor Paint.

Crumbling floors: Depending on the degree of crumbling, these floors can be painted if not too seriously crumbling. The crumbling is due to the fact that a wrong concrete mixture has been used and the screed came out too soft, thus crumbling. The floor must be completely dry, without any contaminations like soap, oil etc. Dilute the first coat with 30% thinner and apply two consecutive coats undiluted. The first coat must be diluted in this manner as to enable the floor paint / epoxy floor paint to penetrate the screed properly and thus stabilizing it. As it is very difficult to establish the degree of crumbling, no guarantee can be given that this method will solve the problem and be a lasting solution. When in doubt, remove crumbling topping and replace with new proper topping.


Under normal Namibian environmental conditions it is sufficient to sand the surface to matt and then paint two coats of NEO Dur PVA SABS 1 or NEO Gloss Acrylic directly onto the PVC. Under extreme (moist) environmental or industrial conditions sand to matt, then apply one coat NEO Multi-Purpose Primer and then apply two coats of NEO Gloss Acrylic, NEO Dur PVA, NEO Dur High Gloss Enamel, NEO Industrial Plastic or NEO Silk. Please contact NEO Paints for correct product selection.

Extremely dark colours (especially clean colours like blue, red, yellow & green) are often tinted to maximum colorant limit. This does not make the paint of an inferior quality, but influences the drying time negatively. The high colorant content makes it difficult for certain additives to evaporate and thus there will be matt / glossy patches in the paint film directly after painting. Depending on the amount of colorant in the paint and the prevailing weather conditions it can take up to three weeks for the additivesl to evaporate and the paint to display in an even finish. (Also see section: Ceilings – Enamel paints on Ceilings)

Parapet walls are not the ideal construction in the harsh climatic Namibian environment. The constant change between hot and cold, dry and wet will ultimately lead to cracking of the plaster of parapet walls, as they are not protected by a roof against these climatic conditions.

To rectify this, remove all loose and flaking paint and apply one coat of NEO Bonding Liquid. Paint all cracks and the top of parapet walls (going 5cm over the edges both sides) with 3 coats of NEO Elastic Waterproofing. Paint 2 coats of finishing NEO PVA of choice over NEO Elastic Waterproofing when dry (recommended as the waterproofing will be protected from the sun by the paint and thus stay elastic much longer).


Red Rust must be removed completely by means of sanding or other mechanical means back to clean metal. Prime with NEO Zinc Chromate, NEO Corrotec or NEO Corroguard within one hour after cleaning.

See also section: galvanised steel – old galvanised roof sheeting.

First you need to know the radius of the floor area (circle) and the depth of the dam. Then you calculate the area to be painted by the following method:

For example, the dam has a diameter of 6 meter and two meter depth.

The radius is half the diameter, in this case 3 meter.

Formula for circular surface = r² x π (π = 3.14)

Formula for circumstance of circle = 2 x r x π

Floor surface m² =   r² x 3.14

                                 3²m x 3.14

  • m² x 3.14

28.26 m²

Wall surface m² =    (2 x r) 3.14 (circumstance) x 2m (depth)

                                 (2 x 3m) 3.14 x 2m

                                 (6m x 3.14) 2m

                                 18.84m x 2m


Total area to be painted: 66m²

Contact NEO Helpline before attempting to paint a pool/concrete dam.

Pva from carpets / cement / Aluminium frames:

Once the Pva has dried, it is nearly impossible to remove. Paint remover and Special Thinner will soften the Pva, but it will become a gluey, sticky mass, which is difficult to remove. Carpets often stain from the thinner / paint remover or the spilled PVA spot becomes more obvious; for this reason it is not to be recommended. On cement it is often easier to remove the dried PVA with a spatula or a by means of sanding. On Aluminium do not use Paint remover, as the Paint Remover will stain the Aluminium and these stains cannot be removed. A far better option would be to soften the PVA with Special Thinner and rub it off with a hard brush (not a wire brush!), or to carefully remove the hardened paint with a window scraper.

Road marking paint from Interlocks:

Road marking paint can only be removed mechanically, as the paint is hardwearing and chemical resistant. Paint Remover will not lift the paint, nor will thinner soften it (this is why there is Road marking paint black – to paint over road signs that became abundant on asphalt streets). An alternative would be to sand the road marking paint very well and paint over with a PVA mixed closely to the colour of the interlocks.


Concrete pools: Only pools properly damp sealed during construction can be painted. Concrete pools never painted before should be painted with NEO Swimming Pool Paint. Make sure the concrete is clean and dry. The first coat must be diluted with 10% NEO Enamel Thinner and a second coat undiluted. Fill water 5 to 7 days after application of the second coat. NEO Swimming Pool Paint should be applied in the shade and by brush only.

Previously painted pools all loose paint, chlorines and algae residue must be removed. Damaged areas sanded well and spot primed with one diluted coat of NEO Swimming Pool Paint. Apply one coat NEO Swimming Pool Paint over whole area. Let dry for 5 to 7 days before filling with water.

NB: Concrete pools must be sealed from the outside with preferably NEO Bitumen Black and damp-core plastic. If not sealed, moisture from the surrounding ground will be pulled by the capillary effect of the concrete into the concrete, migrate through the concrete and eventually push the pool paint off the concrete (paint is blistering and flaking off the wall). This is not a failure of the paint, but a construction flaw and cannot be solved with paint. Unfortunately, there is nothing that can be done if the damp core is damaged or non-existing as pools need to be damply sealed from the outside (side where moisture ingress takes place.

Example of blistering & peeling of pool paint due to moisture penetration from surrounding ground:

Fibreglass pools: Fibreglass pools cannot be painted with conventional pool or any other paint. These pools must be coated with a fibreglass mixture. Contact a supplier of fibre glass pools.

Tiled pools: A pool that is tiled cannot be painted. If you want to paint a tiled pool, the tiles must be removed completely, the pool re-plastered and once the plaster is dry, the pool can be painted.  

Cracks in pools: Widen cracks in pools with disk grinder using a concrete cutting blade. The cracks must be cut 5mm wide and 10 to 15mm deep. Moisten Crack Cavity with NEO Bonding Liquid and fill cracks with NEO Repairpaste in 2mm thick layers – let each layer dry for 2 hours and repeat until cavity is filled completely (do not use silicone – no paint will adhere to it, or powder based crack filler – will soften if in contact with water). Work off last layer to smooth with moist spatula and let dry for at least 7 days. Prime with one diluted coat of NEO Swimming Pool Paint. Apply one coat of NEO Swimming Pool Paint undiluted over whole surface.

These stains must be washed with sugar soap, properly rinsed with clean potable water and left to dry. Once completely dry, apply one coat of NEO Stain Sealer and two coats of NEO PVA of choice.

If oil based paint is painted onto a wet wall, the oil based paint is prone to an alkaline attack. Moisture in the wall carries the alkaline of the cement to the surface and when coming into contact with the oil paint, turns the oil in the paint virtually into soap – a sticky, yellowish film will form and when whetted and rubbed, will foam like soap. This we call soaponification. This damaged oil paint film has to be removed completely, the wall left to dry out completely and then to be sealed with NEO Bonding Liquid or NEO Contractor Premium Primer and then over-coated with two coats of NEO PVA of choice. Request a NEO Representative to do moisture testing prior to painting.

Salts are in the building sand and when dissolved by moisture penetrating the wall, will remain as white salt deposits on the wall surface when this moisture evaporates.

Wash the wall with plenty of clean potable water, let dry and wait for 3 to 4 weeks. If Saltpetre re-appears, repeat the process. If no or very little saltpetre is showing, apply two to three coats NEO Saltstop wet in wet. Let dry properly and paint with one coat NEO Contractors Premium Primer and two coats NEO PVA of choice.

See also sections: Dampness in walls and moisture in walls & floors.


Find out which paint was used and which thinner was used for thinning. Wrong thinner can have the following results: The paint jells or does dry very slowly, does not dry at all or does not adhere to the substrate. It is of utmost importance to use the right thinner for the paint being used – always refer to information on paint can for the correct thinner to be used with the specific product.

NEO M-Thinner is an alcohol base and can only be used in NEO Corrotec Primer, NEO Stain Sealer and NEO Heat Resistant Paint. Adding any other thinner will result in jellying.

Turps, Enamel thinner, Special Thinner, Lacquer Thinner and Toluol are all Petroleum based thinners, but have different properties. Due to the different grade of strength and combination of additives, they might impair the quality of the paint, influence the drying time or even lead to jellying if the wrong thinner is used. Once a wrong thinner is used to “thin” paint, nothing can be done to reverse this and the paint must be destroyed. See also section: Drying

Tiles: There is a large variety of tiles on the market – glazed and non-glazed.

Paint glazed tiles: I have glazed wall tiles and want to paint them, which paint should I use?

Glazed tiles should be washed with Methylated Spirits to remove possible oil, fat and soap contamination. Let dry and sand to semi matt with wet & dry sanding paper and dust well. Prime with one coat NEO Multi Purpose Primer and then paint with 2 coats NEO Gloss Acrylic, NEO Dur PVA, NEO Dur High Gloss Enamel, NEO Silk Enamel, NEO Dur Eggshell Enamel or NEO Industrial Plastic. Please ask a NEO Representative for correct product selection.

Tiled pools and glazed floor tiles cannot be painted.

Paint porous tiles: I have porous floor / wall tiles. I want to paint / varnish them. Can I do that?

Porous tiles can be painted / varnished. If varnished, the tiles must be dry, clean and free from fat / oil.

Interior the tiles can be sealed with either the water or solvent based NEO Stone Sealer, which leave a semi-matt to semi-gloss finish, depending of the number of coats applied.

Should you wish to have a high sheen varnished finish, apply one coat NEO Stone Sealer (solvent based) followed by 2 coats NEO Floor Varnish (Siegellack).

Exterior only the water based NEO Stone Sealer can be used. If the exterior floor gets a lot of water and is moist most of the time, it is required to apply one coat of NEO Salt Stop prior to applying the NEO Stone Sealer (also recommended on slasto and other porous tile exterior floor).

If painting is an option, apply one coat NEO Floor Paint thinned with 10% NEO Enamel Thinner and two coats undiluted on interior floors only. For exterior see section: Interlocks.

Porous wall tiles should be sealed with one coat NEO Contractor Premium Primer or NEO Bonding Liquid first, then apply two coats of NEO paint of choice.


Neo Paints has NEO Woodcoating gloss or suede, which has UV filters in the varnish. These UV filters give the NEO Woodcoating the yellowish appearance. Special waxes in the NEO Woodcoating makes it more flexible, prolonging the life time compared to conventional Polyurethane Varnishes.


See section: galvanised steel – old galvanised roof sheeting.

See section: Ceilings – Water marks.

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